Art of producing sewed garments



M. POPPER ART OF PRODUCING SEWED GARMENTS March 17, 1936.

Filed Oct. 24, 1934 i '2 Sheets- Sheet 1 MAX PUP/ ER [f INVENTOR.

BMW ATTORNEY] March 17, 1936: M. POPPER 2,034,354

- ART OF PRODUCING SEWED GARMENTS Filed Oct. 24, 1934 I z sheets-sheet 2 Wy 4Z3 L .5

- 1 mi /imam \ATTORINIIZY MAX Pop/ ER j 5 Patented Mar. 17, 193

PATENT orsion ART OF PRODUCING SEWED GABJVIENTS Max Popper, Brooklyn, N. Y., assignor to Topstitch Machine Corp., New York, N. Y., a corpoi-ation of New York I Application October 24, 1934, Serial No. 149,724

11 Claims. (Cl.112-'262) This invention is directed broadly to amethod of producing a pinkedand topstitched seam for sewed articleswherin the edge fitions of two sections of fabric are upturned and simultane-. ously pinked and then downfolded with the pinked edges facing respectively inopposite ,directions and sewed together with a topstitch to form a practically flat pinked seam by a single passage through a. combined pinking and sewing mfmachine. v

An object of this invention is to provide a pinked and topstitched seam with the pinked edgesfacing respectively in opposite directions and by a single passage through a combinedpinking and sewingmachine. j

Another object of this invention is to provide a pinked and,topstitchedseam in successive steps of upturning, pinking and downfolding the edges of two sections of fabric with the pinked edges facing respectively in opposite directions and then stitching together the folded edges of the two sections of fabric by a single passage through acombined pinking and sewing machine and form a uniformly symmetrical and superiorly ornamerited elastic seam with zig-zag stitching for sewed articles.

With the above and other objects in view, the invention will he hereinafter more particularly described and "the successive steps required to carry out my method will be more fully disclosed. A

In the drawings which show by way of illustration one emboent of the seam and the steps of the method of making the same, Figure 1 is a-perspective view showing the manner of F placing, upturning; pinking,v downfolcling the edges of the sections of fabric with the pinned edges respectively facing in opposite directions and uniting the folded edges by zig-zag topstitch- 4o ing, in successive steps. and in one continuous operation. figure 2 is a sectional view taken as on line 2-2inFigurel. I L Figure 3 is a'sectional view taken as on line Hang n Figure 4-1s a sectional viewtaken as on line. Hinmgurel.

Figure 5 is a cross-sectional view of a moed w pinked and topstitched seam, wherein the'pinked fabric edges are in superposed relation and all the stitch lines pass through four layers of fabric.

Figure dis a plan view of the folder; Figure 7 isa side view, of the folder set in the base-Plate. I

Figure 8 is a sectional view of the folder, the section being taken as on line 8-8 in Figure 6.

Referring more in detail to the drawings, the method is carried out as follows: Two fabric sections It and ii are positioned flat and in 5 juxtaposed relation on the base plate I2 of a combined pinking and sewing machine (not shown). The sections It and ii have their edges l3 and it upturned to fit into guideways l5 and Id of a folder H. The upturned edges l3 and M are 1 presented to a pinking mechanism It. The pinking mechanism it preferably comprises a rotary cutter it having a zig-zag cutting surface and resiliently pressed in any suitable manner against the outer surface of a'rotatably mounted ball'1'5 hearing or dish 2h. The pinking mechanism is I grips the upturned edge portions 83 and it of thefabric sections to and ii" and feeds them towards the needle 2! of the combined pinking and topstitch sewing machine. edges 83 and M3 are simultaneously pinked during the movement through the pinking mec a u and are then foldeddown with the pinked edg facing respectively in opposite directions byva duplex it ,1; 1-, section 22 of the-folder ll and 25 united togethervby topstitching 23 The stitch- 1 ing is preferably of the zig-zag type, the fabric being pierced successively in two dlfierentand slightly spaced longitudinal lineathe'threads of the stitches extending from. one line to the other 3 at uniform angles which permits the seamto yield when the fabric sections are stretched, without any'danger of tearing the thread. The seam as illustrated in Figure 4, shows the 7 edge portions i3 and it of the fabric sections ill 35 .i

seam wherein the sections of fabric are stitched 46 together while lying face to face;

When two layers of fabric are 1:. stitchw withthe fabric sections lying hat and face to face, the stitches are visible only on the;

left sides of the fabrics, that is, on the normall-50 concealed surfaces of the garments. However, when two layers of fabric are pinked and stitched withfolded layers, as shown in Flgure the stitches are visible on theleft or normally concealed side as well as on the rightornormally 5e The upturned 20, t

exposed side of the fabrics and such a stitch is termed by the art a topstitch, because the stitches are visible on the top face of the fabric sections.

When the type of seam shown in Figure 4 is made by two sewing operations, 1. e., first a combined seaming and pinking operation and then a separate topstitch operation, it is practically impossible to provide uniformly parallel lines of stitching and uniformly parallel lines of pinking and stitching. My method makes it possible not only to produce the seam in one operation, but in addition provides perfectly parallel and uniform lines of pinking and stitching.,

It is to be noted that the stitching together of the two sections of fabric may be done with a single needle or with a multiple needle zig-zag sewing machine, as illustrated in Figure 1. These various kinds 'of stitching may be produced on a sewing machine well known to the art as a Singer 107W or any other similar machine may be used when equipped with my device shown in Figure 1.

As shown in Figures 1 and 4, it will be noted that some of the stitches 24 pass through two layers of fabric section [0 and other of the stitches 25 pass through two layers of fabric section II. .It is also to be noted that the stitching,

whether single or multiple zig-zag stitch, may be directed to pass through two layers of fabric as shown in Figures 1 and 4, or through four layers of fabric as shown by the stitch lines 24', 25', in Figure 5, wherein the folded edges are in superposed relation.

As best shown inFigures 6 and 7, the folder I! is provided with a thin central rib 26 which may be secured to the guideway member 21 intermediate the guideways l5 and Hi. The rib 26 preferably slopes down or changes elevation from the upper elevation of the guideway member 21 and terminates in a line with the point of exit 28 of the duplex hemming section 22 and as close to the needle 2| as possible. The rib 26 extends substantially down to the base-plate l2. The folder I! also comprises two plates 29 and 30 fastened to the guideway member 21 and positioned in a. horizontal plarieparallel with and in spaced relation from the base-plate I2. The plates 29 and 30 are spaced away from the rib 26 forming longitudinal openings to permit the fabric sections In and II to enter between said plates and the base-plate I 2 and to turn upwards, the turned edges l3 and I4 on emerging from the guideways I5 and I6 being then constrained to follow the rib 26 on respective sides thereof till the point of exit 28 from the hemmlng section 22 of the folder II, when the'pinked edges are curved at the tongues 33 and then flattened in-the slot-like passages 34. V 7

It is to be noted that the two sections of fabric Ill and II are positioned on the base-plate l2 of the sewingmachine with the normally exposed surfaces of the fabric sections in direct contact with said base-plate.

It is also to be noted that when the seam hereseam and the'stitching shown in Figures 1 and 4 will pass through four layers of fabric while the stitching shown in Figure 5 will pass through eight layers of fabric.

I may position the pinking mechanism I8 substantially in line withthe needle so as to perform the pinking and stitching operations simultaneously.

r In order to remove the pinked clippings from the line of stitching and away from the pinking mechanism, I may provide an air compressor (not shown) and terminating in an air-line 3I preferably positioned close to the exit end of the pinking mechanism I 8. A jet of compressed air may thus be directed crosswise to the line of pinking to blow the pinked clippings out of the way of the line of stitching.

In operation, the edges of the juxtaposed fabric sections are first turned up and pinked, the pinked edges are then downfolded with the pinked edges It is to be noted that by the term flat, edgefolded, seam is meant a seam which has no hollow formation at the folded edge and wherein the folded layers are drawn together taut by the stitches which go through and across the line of seam formation, as best shown in Figure 4.

An elastic seam of the nature herein described is very desirable for making ladies silk underwear and similar garments of fine texture, where it is necessary to reinforce the seam to secure additional strength because very delicate fabrics are employed for such garments.

I claim:

1. The method of forming a flat, edge-folded, ornamented and non-raveling elastic seam for sewed articles, which comprises turning up the edges of two flat sections of fabric into adjoining relation, in pinkingboth upturned edges simultaneously, in downfolding both pinked edges on said fabrics with the folded edges facing respectively in opposite directions and then stitching said edges together by a. single line of zig-zag stitching passing through and across both folded edges of said sections of fabric andcausing both of said edges to be transversely ornamented with V-shaped cuts to prevent raveling, both of said ornamented edges extending sideways from said stitched-portion and forming a flat, edge-folded, ornamented and elastic seam with zig-zag stitches passing over the adjoining edges of the folded sections of fabric.

2. The method of forming a flat, edge-folded, ornamented and non-raveling elastic seam for sewed articles, which comprises turning up the edges of two flat sections of fabric into adjoining I relation, in pinking both upturned edges, in downfolding both pinked edges on said fabrics with the folded edges facing respectively in opposite directions, in causing said pinked edges to lay fiat in superposed relation and then stitching said edges together by a single line of zig-zag stitching passing through and across both folded edges of said sections of fabric and causing both of said edges to be transversely ornamented with V- shaped cuts to prevent raveling, both of said ornamented edges extending sideways from said stitched portion and forming a flat, edge-folded, ornamented and elastic seam with zig-zag stitches passing over the adjoining edges of the folded sections of fabric.

' 3. The method of forming a flat, edge-folded, ornamented and 'non-raveling elastic seam for sewed articles, which comprises turning the edges of two flat sections of fabric into adjoining relation with each other and in angular relation with said sections, in pinking both upturned edges simultaneously, in folding the pinked edges on said fabrics with the folded edges facingrespectively in opposite directions, in causing said pinked edges to lay flat in superposed relation and then stitching said edges together by a single line of zig-zag stitching passing through and across both folded edges-of said sections of fabric and causing both of said edges to be transversely ornamented with V-shaped cuts to prevent raveling, both of said ornamented edges extending sideways from said stitched portion and forming a flat, edge-folded,-ornamented and elastic seam with zig-zag stitches passing over'the adjoining edges of the folded sections of fabric.

4. The method of forming a flat, edge-folded,

ornamented and non-raveling elastic seam for sewed articles, which comprises turning up the edges of two sections of fabric into adjoining relation, in pinking both upturned edges simultane-' ously, in downfolding and causing said pinked edges to lay flat and facing in opposite directions and then stitching said edges together by a single line of zig-zag stitching passing through and across both folded edges of said sections of fabric.

and causng bothof said edges to be transversely ornamented with V-shaped cuts to prevent raveling, both of said ornamented edges extending sideways from said stitched, portion and forming a "flat, edge-folded, ornamented and elastic seam edges together by a single line of zig-zag stitching passing through and across both folded edges ,of said sections of fabric and causing both of said edges to be transversely ornamented with V- shaped cuts to prevent raveling, both of saidornamented edges extending sideways from said.v

stitched portion and forming a fiat, edge-folded,

ornamented and elastic seam with zig-zag stitches a single line of zig-zag stitchingpassing through passing over the adjoining edges of the folded sections of fabric. g

6. The method of forming a flat, edge-folded, ornamented and non-raveling elastic seam for sewedarticles, which comprises placing two sectiohs of fabric on the base-plate of a sewing machine in juxtaposed relation, in turning the edges of said sections of fabric into adjoining relation with each other and in angular relation with said sections, in pinking both turned edges simultane ously, in folding the pinked edges with the pinked portions respectively facing in opposite directions and causing said edges to lay fiat in superposed relation and then stitching said edges together by and 'acrossboth folded edges of said sections of fabric and causing both of said edges to be transversely ornamented with V,-shaped cuts to prevent raveling; both of said ornamented edges extending sideways from said stitched portion and forming a A flatyedge-folded, ornamented and elastic seam with. ig-zag stitches passing over the adjoining edges of the folded sections of fabric.,

'7. The method of forming a fiat, edge-folded, ornamented and nonraveling elastic seam for sewed articles, which comprises placing two sections of fabric flat on the base-plate of asewing machine with their respective edges, on each side of the needle, in turning the edges of said sections of fabric into adjoining relation with each other and in angular relation with said sections, in pinking both turned edges simultaneously, in 5 folding the pinked edges with the pinked portions respectively facing in opposite directions "and causing said folded edges to lay flat in superposed relation and then stitching said edges together by a single line of zig-zag stitching passing through and across both folded edges of said sec-- tions of. fabric and causing both of said edges to be transversely ornamented with v-shap ed cuts to prevent raveling, both 'of said ornamented edges extending sideways from said stitched portion and forming a flat, edge-folded, ornamented and elastic seam with 'zigzag stitches passing over the adjoining edges of the folded sections of fab- 8. A pinked and overedge zig-zag stitched Seam for sewed articles, comprising two sections of fabric, eachsection having a pinked and downfolded flat edge, the folded edge of one section of fabric lying flat insuperposed relation on the other section of fabric and being stitched together by a single line of zig-zag stitches passing through both folded edges of said sections of fabric, both of said edges being transverselyornamented with V-shaped cuts visible on one side of the sewed article, both of said ornamented edges extending 30 sideways from said stitched portion and forming a fiat, edge-folded, nonraveling and elastic'seam with zig-zag stitches passing through the folded sections of fabric.

'9. A pinked and overedge zi'ggzag stitched seam for sewed articles, comprising twosections of fabric, each section having a pinked and downfolded flat edge, the folded edge of one section of fabric lying fiat in superposed relation on the other section of fabric andbeing stitched together by a single line of zig-zag, stitches passing through both folded edges of said sections of fabric, both of said edges being transversely ornamented with V-shaped cuts visible on one side of the sewed article, both of said ornamented edges extending sideways from said stitched portion and forming a flat, edge-folded, non-raveling and elastic seam with zig-zag stitches passing through the folded sections of fabric.

iii. A pinked and overedge zigzag stitched seam for sewed articles, comprising two juxtaposed sections of fabric, eachsection having'a pinked andfolded flatedge, the folded ,edge of one section lying flat in superposed relation on 55 the other section of fabric and being stitched together by a singleline of zig-zag stitches passing through both folded edges of said sectionsof fabric, both of said edges beingtransversely ornamented with V-shaped cuts visible on one side of the sewed article, both of said ornamented edges extending sideways from said stitched portion and forming a flat, edge-folded, non-raveling and elastic seam withzig-zag stitches passing through the folded sections of fabric.

ii. A pinked and overedge zig-zag stitched seam for sewed articles, comprising two sections of fabric, each section having 8 pinked and downfolded flat edge, said folded and pinked edges .lying flat and facing in opposite directions on said sections of fabric and being stitched together by a single line of zig-zag stitches passing through and across both folded edgesof said sections of fabric, vboth of said edges being transversely ornamented with v-shaped cuts to prevent raveling, both of said ornamented edges extending sideways from said stitched portion and. forming a flat, edge-folded, ornamented and elastic seam with zig-zag stitches passing over the adjoining edges of the folded sections of fabric.

12. The method of forming a flat, edge-folded, ornamented and non-raveling elastic seam for sewed articles, which comprises placing a plurality of sections of fabric fiat on the base-plate of a sewing machine with their respective edges on each side of the needle, in turning the edges of said sections of fabric into adjoining relation with each other and in angular relation with said sections, in pinking all of said turned edges, in folding the pinked edges with the pinked portions respectively facing in opposite directions and causing said folded edges to lay flat and stitching said edges together by topstitching passing through all of said sections of fabric and by a single line of zig-zag stitching passing through and across both folded edges of said sections of fabric and causing both of said edges to be transversely ornamented with V-shaped cuts to pre-, vent raveling, both of said ornamented edges extending sideways from said stitched portion and forming a; fiat, edge-folded, ornamented and elastic seam with zig-zag stitches passing over the adjoining edges of the folded sections of fabric. 13. The method of forming a flat, edge-folded,

ornamented and non-raveling elastic seam for sewed articles, which comprises placing a plurality of sections of fabric fiat on the base-plate of a sewing machine with their respective edges on each side of the needle, in turning theedges of said sections of'fabric into adjoining relation with each other and in angular relation with saidsections', in pinking' all of said turned edges, in blowing the pinked clippings away from the line of stitching, in folding the pinkededge's with the pinked portions respectively facing in opposite directions and causing said folded edges to a lay flat and'stitchi'ng said edges together by topstitching passing through all of saidsections of fabric and by a single line of zig-zag stitching passing through and across both folded edges of said sections of fabric and causing both of said edges to be transversely ornamented with V- shaped cuts to prevent raveling, both of said ornamented edges extending sideways from said stitched portion and forming a flat, edge-folded,

,flat edge, said folded-and trimmed edges lying flat and facing in opposite directions on said sections of fabric and being stitched together by a single line of zig-zag stitching passing through the pre-folded edges of the folded sections of fabric and forming an edge-folded and trimmed elastic seam substantially fiat on its normally exposed surface.

15. An edge-folded and zig-zag stitched seam having all folded edges in contact with the normally concealed surface of the garment, comprising at least two sections of fabric, each section having a downfolded flat edge, said folded edges lying fiat and facing in opposite directions on said sections of fabric and being stitched together by a single line of zig-zag stitching passing through the pre-folded edges of the folded sections of fabric and forming an edge-folded elastic seam substantially flat on its normally exposed surface.

16. An edge-folded, trimmed and zig-zag stitched seam, substantially fiat on its normally exposed surface, comprising at leasttwo sec-' tions of fabric, each section having a trimmed and fiat edge folded against the normally concealed surface of the garment, said folded and trimmed edges lying flat and facing in opposite directions on said sections of fabric and being stitched together by a single line of zig-zag stitching passing through the pre-folded. edges of the folded sections of fabric.

17. An edge-folded and zig-zag stitched seam,

substantially flat on its normally exposed surface,

comprising at least two sections of fabric, each section having a flat edge folded against the normally concealed surface of the garment, said folded edges lying flat and facing 'in'opposite di'- rections on said sections of fabric and being stitched together by a single line of zig-zag stitching passing through the pre-folded edges of the.

folded sections of fabric.

' MAX POPPER.

DISCLAIMER v 2,034,354=.Max Popper, Brooklyn, N. Y' ART OF PRODUCING SEWED GARMENTS. Patent dated March 17, 1936. Disclaimer filed September 28, 1937, by the patentee and the assignee, Topstizch Machine Corporation.

Hereby enter this disclaimer on claims 1 to 15, inclusive, of said Letters Patent: any seam having the edges folded in opposite directions and which is not made solely by a single line of zig-zag stitching.

(Ofiicial Gazette October 19, 1.937.) 

